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Martha’s Vineyard 41º 27’ North 70º 35’ West is the geographic location of the east end of the breakwater in Vineyard Haven harbor - year-round port of entry for the Island of Martha’s Vineyard. This special bit of glacial moraine, roughly 100 square miles, is steeped in history and defined by its extraordinary natural beauty. Five lighthouses stand sentinel over the headlands ensuring safe passage.
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Miles of beaches, silver, peaceful, and protected lie on the north and east sides. This coast fringed with fragrant rosa rugosa and beach plums, stands in stark contrast to the primal rumbling surf which defines the southern edge of this unparalleled stretch of coastline. There are many rocky coves and inlets where the bass and the bluefish hide. It is the sea that draws people to this island. It always has been.
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More than a century ago, Martha’s Vineyard was home to one-quarter of the world’s entire whaling fleet - truly an early example of a global economy. Native sons and young husbands left their families and signed aboard a whaling ship to see the world and to find their fortunes. With the advent of petroleum in 1857, however, whale oil was no longer needed, and so sailors started moving cargo. Vineyard Sound and Nantucket Sound became the highway for the great Atlantic coastal shipping fleet. It was not uncommon for 300 coasters at a time to be anchored in Vineyard Haven harbor, awaiting a fair tide and a fair breeze. What a sight that must have been! The sea is still the Vineyard’s best economic resource. For three centuries, Vineyarders had looked to the sea for their livelihood. Where once whaling and shipping had been the backbone of the economy, the 20th century now witnessed the growth of a new industry, travel and tourism. Beaches, sweet breezes, fishing, and the mere sight of the ocean beckons thousands of visitors to these shores.
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Martha’s Vineyard is comprised of six towns, all unique in their character and history. The quiet leafy streets of Edgartown are lined with large elegant homes. Many of these, crowned with widows’ walks, were built by captains as they returned home from lucrative whaling voyages. It is unusual to find a colonial village which has suffered so few changes to its original fabric. Strolling the red brick sidewalks, meandering through the village, you will discover a treasure trove of architectural gems. The famous whaling church, is a classic example of Greek revival architecture. On South Water Street, you’ll have to walk around the roots of a giant Pagoda tree, erupting through the slate sidewalk. This large impressive tree was brought back from China in 1843 in a tiny cup by Captain Thomas Milton to adorn his home.
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Oak Bluffs is an interesting amalgam of old-time religion and vibrant night life. The town, originally known as Cottage City, began as a Methodist campground. The Tabernacle is at the hub, and is the location of many festivals. celebrations and musical events. The Grand Illumination Night is a high point of the summer season, the gingerbread houses glow with candle-lit Japanese lanterns, as the band plays old-time favorites in the Tabernacle and the crowd sings along.
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West Tisbury displays the Island’s rural charm. The town hosts a farmers market twice a week, where you will find fresh island corn, beach plum or rose hip jelly, fabulous sunflowers, and the best cherry tomatoes . In August, all roads lead to West Tisbury for the good old-fashioned Agricultural Society Fair, complete with horse-pulling contests, women throwing hatchets, fiddlers, pet shows, and carnival rides. The cotton candy is the perfect color pink, and the air is redolent of fried dough.
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Chilmark looks like Scotland, with its sheep farms and rolling hills, with the Atlantic Ocean as a backdrop. Tucked away in all that greenery are the homes of the rich and famous that the tour bus drivers love to talk about. The main intersection in town is known as “Beetlebung Corner” for the tupelo trees, from which beetles (mallets) and bungs (wooden plugs) used on vessels were made. Chilmark Chocolates is just a stone’s throw down the road. You’ll also find a small general store, its parking lot filled with bicycles, and its porches lined with rocking chairs. No island tour is complete without a sunset picnic on Menemsha Beach. Bring your chair and your bottle of wine.
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The outermost town on the island is Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) famous for its variegated clay cliffs. It is a great spot to observe lobstermen, small fishing trawlers, sportsfishermen, and the occasional windsurfer. It also boasts of the finest beaches on the East Coast. It is the home of the Wampanoag Tribe who sell native American wares at cliff-top. On a clear day, you can see Devil’s Bridge and the towers of the Newport Bridge.
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Vineyard Haven harbor, its skyline dominated by church steeples, is home to a fleet of wooden vessels which is the envy of ports around the world. The collection of fine schooners is one of the reasons that yachtsmen seek out this harbor of refuge. Smoky sou’westers prevail in Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, bringing with them ideal sailing conditions. Sailors love this anchorage, a modern sailing capital. It is the largest and busiest harbor on the island. Vineyard Haven is the home port to not only the legendary Shenandoah and Alabama, but is the home campus of the equally historic and legendary Black Dog Tavern. In days of old vessels from this port were commonplace in all parts of the world; today its most famous ambassador, a small black dog, can be seen on all seven continents. Worn by humble and royal alike, she represents a lifestyle and values that reflect the Vineyard way of life.
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The island population of 15,000 year-round, is comprised of craftsmen, artists, businessmen and farmers, musicians, naturalists, authors, as well as the who’s-who from New York and Washington, Boston and Hollywood. There are many events extending into the off-season, long after the beaches have shed their umbrellas and beach towels. Fishing derbies, equestrian events, street fairs, chili contest and chowder fests entice folks all year round to visit this island destination.
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There are hotels and B&B’s ready to accommodate the traveler in any season; the pace is leisurely, scenery unparalleled, and The Black Dog, with its just-caught fish on the menu, roaring fire, and collection of luscious desserts, is waiting to welcome you to this well-known port of call.
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2005 Island Events